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Tuesday, April 23, 2019

Modifying Adult Skylan's for a Formal Occasion

It’s that time of year for teen proms, banquets, or maybe even a formal night on a cruise. Formal gowns can be very expensive to either make or buy, so I wanted to modify Skylan to be the perfect formal attire for your special occasion at an affordable price.


First off, you will need to get the pattern here: https://ckcpatterns.com/skylans-womens.html
To begin, be sure to read the fabric requirements on the pattern. I used a white/gold ombre sequin on heavy mesh for the main fabric. This is a four way stretch knit material. For the lining, I chose to use a black yoga performance material. Both fabrics are from So Sew English Fabrics

I chose to size down the width of the lining in order to act as a shapewear for this form fitting dress.  This is not necessary, but I love the idea of having a dress with built-in shapewear! If you choose to size down, cut the same arm curve in the size you are making but grade the width to the next size down. You will need to cut the lining an inch shorter than main fabric as well.
Once you put the pattern pieces together, you will need to cut the neckline a size smaller. For example, if you are making a size medium, cut the neckline for size small. Then, grade the neckline to the medium shoulder piece. This will make the shoulder piece a little wider and the neckline smaller, since you will not be adding a neckband in this modification. If you find that you usually have a hard time with clothes slipping off your shoulders, you may need to perform a shoulder adjustment to the pattern piece for a better fit.
Once you have your main fabric, lining, and sleeve pieces cut in the size you are making, begin with Step 1 in the pattern for both main and lining. 
Next, you will lay the main piece on a flat surface with right side facing up. Lay the lining on top of the main piece. The right sides will be facing one another. Pin around the neckline and sew. 


You will now understitch the seam allowance around the neck to the lining by sewing 1/8” from the  seam.The red line shows where you will be sewing, but you will go all the way around the neckline.

If you want the lining to be sewn in the seam of the main fabric, continue with the Skylan instructions from the pattern. Be sure to baste the lining to the main fabric around the arm curve before you sew the sleeve on the bodice.
If you want your lining to be separate from your main fabric, sew the side seam of the lining separate from the main fabric.

Continue with the Skylan instructions to sew the sleeve piece onto the main fabric only but not the lining. You will complete all the instructions from the pattern. Hem the lining as well. 
Finally, you will finish by sewing the lining around the arm of the main garment to complete the dress. To do this, you will fold the lining under 3/8” and pin over the seam of the sleeve. Be sure the lining is pulled tight. You will see the main bodice fabric just a little from the inside. 

With a needle and thread, you will sew slip stitches to attach the lining around the arm of the main fabric of the dress. If you are unsure of how to do this, watch this video below (you can skip ahead to the 2 min. mark).



You will not see any stitches on the lining once you have completed. 

Sew the slip stitch to the seam allowance on the sleeve of the main fabric. Your thread will not show on the main fabric either.

As you are sewing, try not to pull thread too tightly since you are sewing knit. It will still need to stretch. Once you have sewn the slip stitches around the sleeve opening, tie off your thread. Repeat with other side.
You have now completed your modification to make Women’s Skylan into a beautifully lined formal dress. Now that you are finished, admire your creation! Don’t forget to share with usin our Facebook group so we can admire your Skylan, too! 


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